Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 71
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly!
Really can't believe no one has commented on this route. Oh my God! Where do I begin. If you only ever climb one E1 in your life make it this one. You end up at least 20ft further out than when you started and hardly make an overhanging move. Sensational positions, bomb proof protection, sustained, immaculate rock, interesting throughout - Flawless. You will smile for weeks afterwards just at the thought of this true "Rock Idol". Thanks for the memories Mr Littlejohn.
Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars
It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
Incredible! Totally awesome!
Useful to know that you can do a short rising traverse in from the Straite Gate cave to belay well above the high tide point.
A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected, loads of rests - what's the E1 for, the look of it?
This is definitely the best E1 I have ever led...... and agree that it could possibly be the best in Britain! Great holds and gear all the way..... the only problem is keeping enough back to finish the route. The crux is intimidating but as soon as you commit the good holds just keep on coming;just use your feet well! AMAZING.