Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 68
35m. Another mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! It is a hard E1 though so make sure you have a bit in reserve for the stiff finish. Climb into the cave (possible belay if the tide threatens and it can also be reached by abseil if the tide is in). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. Climb back above into the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top. It is possible to traverse left from where the crack closes into the finishing gully which is a bit easier - HVS 5a.
Felt more like E1 than E2, as there are much bigger holds than Brazen Buttress, the gear is perfect and it HVS all the way up apart from the last few metres.
An utterly fantastic route but it isn't E2. HVS all the way till the crack closes, a good hold to place the bomber wires that protect the crux from and a couple of 5b moves to the top.
Fantastic route. Not E2 if you can use your feet, an epic if you can't.
I'm going to break the trend and say it was worth E2. I found it significantly harder than other E1s at Pembroke. It was spitting with rain tho!