Brazen Buttress

3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tempest < Whirlwind  |  Herod > Heroes >>

A superb and popular route. Start beneath a left-facing groove in the middle of the south face of the buttress. Climb over a small roof into the groove and follow this to the top of the big pedestal (possible belay if the sea is threatening). Climb up and left past a deep crack to gain a rising crackline. Follow this and at its end climb direct to the top.</br>Direct Finish, E3 5c. Direct from half way up the crackline.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 4.76


Didn't seem that low in the grade. Sustained climbing but well protected.
huwtj - 25/Jul/05

Agree with above,sustained and moves not obvious from below. Mega pitch though!
Bob Bennett - 29/Jul/05

A really great route
Geoff Odds - 13/Oct/05

Direct finish worthwhile, pumpy but about E3.
Gareth H - 12/Apr/07

Good fun safe climbing, as soft as it gets. I'd recommend it as anyone's first E2. Amazed that its getting votes for Hard E2, maybe thats for one of the direct finishes. If not, they should try doing Wraith.
Jon Leighton - 06/Aug/07

Still the best route I've done at MCK, delightfully sustained 5b moves. Not E3 (have you lead Star Gate?) but will solidify your forearms if you faff about too long.
Chris Parson - 31/Aug/10

I faffed and my forearms did indeed solidify. Tricky route finding and sustained 5b climbing. Gear's good though.
Dave Foster - 08/Jul/11

Harder than left wall a jug has gone (1997) where you move right. Your saving face if you say it is easy I would not recommend this as a first E2 but go for it if you are going well and the direct finish is a solid E3
joe squire - 02/Oct/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
    hard E3 0 of 16
    E3 0 of 16
    easy E3 0 of 16
    hard E2 4 of 16
    E2 10 of 16
    easy E2 2 of 16
    hard E1 0 of 16
    E1 0 of 16
    easy E1 0 of 16
    hard 5c 0 of 16
    5c 0 of 16
    easy 5c 2 of 16
    hard 5b 10 of 16
    5b 3 of 16
    easy 5b 1 of 16
    hard 5a 0 of 16
    5a 0 of 16
    easy 5a 0 of 16
    3 Stars 15 of 15
    2 Stars 0 of 15
    1 Star 0 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
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