Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 20
12m. The best route on the White Wall has some cunning gear placements and is well worth doing. Start in the middle of the wall beneath a vague niche. Climb up and leftwards using a variety of “stuck on” holds to a foot ledge and good thread placement in the wall above. Move up to the slim overlap then traverse right past a peg before making a final pull around the overlap to jugs and the top.
Climbing is very fingery and needs careful though before the thread below the overlap. Traverse to the peg is technical on layaways and a small sloper above the peg enables you to reac h right to a good crack.
Was hard work in the heat so tricky to give a clear opinion but felt stiff for the grade with both bold and tricky climbing and reliance on only a few gear placements. Worth the effort though. The picture in the guidebook is, to borrow DaveP's time-honoured phrase, unspeakably bad beta.