Up the Establishment

1 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Princess Crack < Prince's Crack  |  Anarchist's Arete > Emperor's Struggle >>

Bomb up the slanting flake to reach the arete with difficulty. Once established, climb the left-hand side of it by neat moves with nicely exposed positions.
FA. Chris Craggs 1990


Found this very stiff particular the moves after you gain the arete, long reaches with very little for your feet.
Budge - 10/May/02

I agree with the comments by Budge of 10.5.02.
I did the route at the end of June and thought the upper section to be E1 5b.
G Arnold - 19/Jul/02

I agree with the comments by G Arnold of 19.7.02 =). Hard, I was wondering if it was just me but perhaps not. Committing reachy moves mostly on sidepulls and stuff with few footholds. Maybe E0 tho.
Fiend - 26/Aug/03

Yup, tricky getting yourself sorted once you pull round the arete. Not convinced it's E1 though - Puppet Crack is way harder!
John D - 13/Jun/05

Lovely couple of moves up the undercut flake lead to the crux of getting established on the left side of the arete. Did have that clingy "on edge" feeling which is perhaps why the adjective grade has been voted relatively high, although if you trust the friction on your feet and just keep going the jugs will come - just at the right time thankfully! Lastly, I'm 5'11" and it didn't seem particularly reachy.
kristian birchall - 13/Jul/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 1 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 1 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 3 of 6
    1 Star 3 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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