Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
30m. An excellent pitch direct up the centre of the wall. From the narrow vegetated ledge on The Screaming Skull, move up to an overlap and pass a peg on its left, to a flake. A tenuous move (peg) accesses a break and a rest. Climb the wall above, passing a thin break and peg, to a second peg. A hard sequence leads to a wide break and easier ground to finish.
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Bolt belay added to top of route. Both are resin bolts.
Probably the second best route on the wall after This Won't Hurt. Steady climbing to a hard crux high up and a goey finish - well worth doing!
Climbed this yesterday, after T.W.H and T.S.S. Its about 3 or 4 years since i did this climb. What i remember about climbing it before was really having to plan and work out moves because i didnt want to fall onto some of the gear. This in turn led to me getting pumped and fighting, especially near the top. Topping out was as stressfull as anything as by this time i was pumped stupid, but more than that i didnt want to blow the climb as by that time i was on bigger holds but ones that looked like they could brake.What brilliant and vivid memories i have of crawling over the top chuffed to bits. Its a great great shame that in this climbs present bolted form no one will experience this, especially as now you just grab a big ugly lower off and lower down. It is also a great shame the wall now has bolts all over it which affects the way the routes are climbed. More than once yesterday i found myself thinking "oh i cant use that hold as its near a bolt on another climb" this did not happen when the wall was as it should be, a wall of great trad climbs. I think rockfax need to change their top 50 climb ratings and star ratings as the climbs on what was a truly brilliant wall of trad routes, has now been reduced to a wall of 5, not too bad, not memorable, do them all in a couple of hours sport routes which llanymynech has many. Would it really have hurt to have left this wall unbolted?
Hi Nick. I found your comments interesting. Life is full of choices and I guess the first ascentionists made the choice to retrobolt their own routes. You new these routes had been bolted – I told you before you did them, but you still chose to repeat them. To use an analogy it’s a bit like going to see a movie adaptation of great book you had read. You would probably walk into the cinema with an expectation that the movie could never do the book justice and then having watched the film have your expectation affirmed! I never did any of the Nomad Wall routes before they were bolted. I have now done them all and from my perspective they are all excellent sports routes with “This Won’t Hurt” being one of the better routes of this grade in the UK. Using my analogy again it’s a bit like me seeing the movie without reading the book first and thinking it was an awesome film. These routes have changed but your original experience of them has not – those memories you have will last. The memories I have on those same routes are equally as valid although different from yours!