While the Cat's Away

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< 49 and Counting < Picking Blackheads  |  Black Wall > Black Bastard >>


Excellent wall climbing with limited protection and some testing run-outs. Climb up to a peg in a very faint left-trending seam. Technical climbing past another peg, and not much other gear, gains a slim overlap. Easier climbing in the same style finishes this monster pitch. Variation - moving right and finishing up the wall between the finishes of Black Wall and Black Bastard is a trickier option than the original but direct finish.
FA. Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon 1986. FA. (Variation) Ed Booth 19.11.2014

USER COMMENTS

Attempted this recently but backed off the crux. Holds are very minimal until the next peg and after 1/2 hour of trying I couldn't see any possible sequence that would result in staying on the rock rather than in air-time. Gear is good if beneath you - file under the "Safe but committing and desperate" category.
Fiend - 03/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
    hard E5 0 of 5
    E5 0 of 5
    easy E5 0 of 5
    hard E4 0 of 5
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    3 Stars 0 of 4
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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