Black Wall

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Picking Blackheads < While the Cat's Away  |  Black Bastard > Black Wall Direct >>


A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge.
FA. Gordon Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.1970,FA. (Start) Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.1987

USER COMMENTS

A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required.

Fantastic views from the top.
Thurg - 15/Oct/05

Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
jim jones - 17/Sep/06

Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
Fiend - 03/Sep/07

New resin bolt belay added to the top of the wall.
Themeninblack - 06/Jan/08

A good trip out but not brilliant - the rock round here just isn't that nice to climb on.
andy m - 04/Sep/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 2 of 10
    hard E1 7 of 10
    E1 1 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 0 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 0 of 9
    easy 5b 0 of 9
    hard 5a 0 of 9
    5a 0 of 9
    easy 5a 0 of 9
    hard 4c 0 of 9
    4c 0 of 9
    easy 4c 0 of 9
    hard 4b 0 of 9
    4b 0 of 9
    easy 4b 0 of 9
    hard 4a 0 of 9
    4a 0 of 9
    easy 4a 0 of 9
    hard 3c 0 of 9
    3c 0 of 9
    easy 3c 0 of 9
    hard 3b 0 of 9
    3b 0 of 9
    easy 3b 0 of 9
    hard 3a 0 of 9
    3a 0 of 9
    easy 3a 0 of 9
    hard 2c 0 of 9
    2c 0 of 9
    easy 2c 0 of 9
    hard 2b 0 of 9
    2b 0 of 9
    easy 2b 0 of 9
    hard 2a 0 of 9
    2a 0 of 9
    easy 2a 0 of 9
    hard ?? 1 of 9
    ?? 8 of 9
    easy ?? 0 of 9
    3 Stars 1 of 10
    2 Stars 8 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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