Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 16
35m. An awesome pitch involving some spicy climbing in a 3 star position. The bolts (and one peg) are slightly spaced but all the difficult moves are well protected. The top section of the route is on sound rock but has lots of small flake chippings which may need to be cleaned off some of the holds (hence all the other routes end at lower-offs below this band). Start up the first couple of moves of Dead Man's Fingers, before moving right on to the line. Increasingly difficult climbing gains a steep wall with a leaning bore hole. Perplexing and strenuous moves up this access the easy but pumpy and rounded upper wall.
Certainly memorable. Some good rock and a good position, but more than it's fair share of choss. The top section is awful, and I like climbing at places like Red Wall at Gogarth!
Did this again on Saturday (24.12.05) to check these comments. The whole thing was in perfect nick with no 'choss' whatsoever. The upper wall though feeling a little run out remains brilliant although I admit to a bit of dust on the ledges below. Considering you've done a 7a to here, I don't think a section of grade 4 climbing for 15ft with a bit of dust should be too difficult to deal with.
Did this with skyhooks years ago.
Really nice route, generally clean and ok rock. However right near the top all routes tend to suffer (to varying degrees) from rock which has tiny flaky edges coming off. However there are plenty of good foot holds and handholds to use, avoiding the poorer ones.
great route, as gary says there is no more than a bit of dust on it. Andy s, what are you on about?