Fern Hill Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Nutcracker < Fern Hill Indirect  |  Owl Gully > Tiger Traverse >>


12m. Magnificent strenuous climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and swing left (small wires can be placed first by bridging out). Make some hard moves to pass the bifurcation then continue along the rising juggy diagonal to the arete and a good rest. Step back right and pull over the roof finishing with a steep mantelshelf onto a ledge just below the cliff top. Photo page 354.
FA. Keith Myhill (one point of aid) 1971 FFA. Tom Proctor early 1970s

USER COMMENTS

I found those crux moves to pass the bifurcation *desperate* - hardest 5c moves I've ever done, but then I can't do 1-arm lockoffs with no footholds... In comparison, the rest of the route is easy!
Nick Smith - 08/Sep/03

Felt fairly easy really- I traversed out a little way to place a good cam, traversed back and chilled then went for it. Found there was no real need for this as the start is the crux anyway and after that it's just pure climbing pleasure.
Dave N - 28/Jun/04

agree that the crux moves are the hardest 5c moves i've ever done. thought five finger exercise was easier!@!
free_doherty - 26/Sep/04

Using a low good hold with your left hand on the diagonal descending from the bifurkation sets you up better for the move
Simon Lee - 23/Jan/05

No hints please others should be able to sample the pleasure 1st hand!! Love this route to pieces
Matt - 18/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 65
    hard E3 0 of 23
    E3 0 of 23
    easy E3 0 of 23
    hard E2 8 of 23
    E2 13 of 23
    easy E2 2 of 23
    hard E1 0 of 23
    E1 0 of 23
    easy E1 0 of 23
    hard 6a 0 of 22
    6a 0 of 22
    easy 6a 1 of 22
    hard 5c 10 of 22
    5c 7 of 22
    easy 5c 3 of 22
    hard 5b 1 of 22
    5b 0 of 22
    easy 5b 0 of 22
    3 Stars 20 of 20
    2 Stars 0 of 20
    1 Star 0 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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