Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 65
12m. Magnificent strenuous climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and swing left (small wires can be placed first by bridging out). Make some hard moves to pass the bifurcation then continue along the rising juggy diagonal to the arete and a good rest. Step back right and pull over the roof finishing with a steep mantelshelf onto a ledge just below the cliff top. Photo page 354.
I found those crux moves to pass the bifurcation *desperate* - hardest 5c moves I've ever done, but then I can't do 1-arm lockoffs with no footholds... In comparison, the rest of the route is easy!
Felt fairly easy really- I traversed out a little way to place a good cam, traversed back and chilled then went for it. Found there was no real need for this as the start is the crux anyway and after that it's just pure climbing pleasure.
agree that the crux moves are the hardest 5c moves i've ever done. thought five finger exercise was easier!@!
Using a low good hold with your left hand on the diagonal descending from the bifurkation sets you up better for the move
No hints please others should be able to sample the pleasure 1st hand!! Love this route to pieces