Five Finger Exercise Top 50

3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Tiger Traverse < Nettle Wine  |  Liquid Assets > Bower Route 1 >>

A superb route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips many a suitor. Pull right over a narrow overlap and climb the wall on small sharp holds (looks harder than it is) then continue to ledges. Fill the horizontal break with runners then swing around the rib and power up the hanging flake. Only the weak are spurned, though the timid may have a hard time too.
FA. Andy Edgar 1976


If you can get established in the upper hanging flake (crux?), then the layback moves up it are fairly straightforward.
Nick Smith - 08/Sep/03

Chewed me up and spat me off like a little bi*ch several times while i was reaching up from the break to the seamingly blank wall. Great fun although smacking off the rock face bout ten times gets quite painful.
Adam Moroz - 27/Sep/04

E2 5c and 3 stars. As good (and not quite as hard) as it looks, with good gear, good rests, and two good cruxes - one for your fingers and footwork, one for your arms and attitude.
Fiend_banned - 13/Mar/05

Another one that should be lead when E2 is top of your game, to fully appreciate the experience. wonderful
Matt - 18/May/05

the break before the flake is really disgusting. it's probably just chalk from people like me who spend the best part of an hour going back and forth from the ledge, chalking up each time, combined with the seepage, but it looks like a bird's shat all over it and it's incredibly slimy. just what you need when there's no footholds and the next hold's an undercut above your head. definitely the crux of the route if you like technical climbing, but dislike foot-holdless, powerful thugginess. very rewarding though, the flake is thrilling (if a little disturbing).
Jon Stewart - 15/Jun/09

Special place in my heart,having done the first ascent. Enjoyed it more the second time ! I think Boot Hill is a better climb overall though.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 87
    hard E3 0 of 29
    E3 0 of 29
    easy E3 5 of 29
    hard E2 12 of 29
    E2 10 of 29
    easy E2 2 of 29
    hard E1 0 of 29
    E1 0 of 29
    easy E1 0 of 29
    hard 6a 0 of 30
    6a 0 of 30
    easy 6a 0 of 30
    hard 5c 10 of 30
    5c 16 of 30
    easy 5c 3 of 30
    hard 5b 1 of 30
    5b 0 of 30
    easy 5b 0 of 30
    3 Stars 28 of 28
    2 Stars 0 of 28
    1 Star 0 of 28
    0 Stars 0 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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