Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 87
A superb route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips many a suitor. Pull right over a narrow overlap and climb the wall on small sharp holds (looks harder than it is) then continue to ledges. Fill the horizontal break with runners then swing around the rib and power up the hanging flake. Only the weak are spurned, though the timid may have a hard time too.
If you can get established in the upper hanging flake (crux?), then the layback moves up it are fairly straightforward.
Chewed me up and spat me off like a little bi*ch several times while i was reaching up from the break to the seamingly blank wall. Great fun although smacking off the rock face bout ten times gets quite painful.
E2 5c and 3 stars. As good (and not quite as hard) as it looks, with good gear, good rests, and two good cruxes - one for your fingers and footwork, one for your arms and attitude.
Another one that should be lead when E2 is top of your game, to fully appreciate the experience. wonderful
the break before the flake is really disgusting. it's probably just chalk from people like me who spend the best part of an hour going back and forth from the ledge, chalking up each time, combined with the seepage, but it looks like a bird's shat all over it and it's incredibly slimy. just what you need when there's no footholds and the next hold's an undercut above your head. definitely the crux of the route if you like technical climbing, but dislike foot-holdless, powerful thugginess. very rewarding though, the flake is thrilling (if a little disturbing).
Special place in my heart,having done the first ascent. Enjoyed it more the second time ! I think Boot Hill is a better climb overall though.