3 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Renaissance < Bower Route 1  |  The Long Distance Runnel > Suicide Wall >>

A superb outing up the left-hand side of the huge face. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some terrifying monkey business in the upper branches of the great oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting too much from the experience.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack with a large jutting block straight into the Bower.
2) 6a, 16m. Climb the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed on simply the best holds in the world.
FA. Paul Nunn (2 pts) 1970. FFA John Allen 1975


Feels contrived to do without the tree. Not as good as the other classics here.
stp - 17/May/02

Desperate! Dont know where E2 came from
free_doherty - 26/Sep/04

Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.
Simon Lee - 23/Jan/05

My favourite route on grit anywhere.
John Kirk - 13/Mar/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
    hard E4 0 of 5
    E4 0 of 5
    easy E4 0 of 5
    hard E3 5 of 5
    E3 0 of 5
    easy E3 0 of 5
    hard E2 0 of 5
    E2 0 of 5
    easy E2 0 of 5
    hard 6b 0 of 5
    6b 0 of 5
    easy 6b 0 of 5
    hard 6a 2 of 5
    6a 3 of 5
    easy 6a 0 of 5
    hard 5c 0 of 5
    5c 0 of 5
    easy 5c 0 of 5
    3 Stars 4 of 4
    2 Stars 0 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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