Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A superb outing up the left-hand side of the biggest face on the cliff. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some scary monkey business in the upper branches of the oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting from the quality.</br>1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack with a large jutting block straight into the Bower - easier than it looks.</br>2) 6a, 16m. Head up the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed spectacularly on superb holds. Glory, glory!
Feels contrived to do without the tree. Not as good as the other classics here.
Desperate! Dont know where E2 came from
Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.
My favourite route on grit anywhere.