Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 220
30m. A stunning route, one of the best in the Peak, following an impressive line of cracks and breaks fairly directly up the steep wall. Climb the abrasive crack, through the chunky tree, and jam onwards to reach an optional (and excellent) stance in the Bower with a belay that is second to none. Move right and climb the wall on small nettle covered finger holds and then a crack to an uncomfortable niche. Layback the crack on the left to the final overhang and finish with gusto. Magnificent.
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The route is and always will be HVS 5b for me. That jam to reach the Bower is desperate for most and the move out from the bower is not much easier.
I found this route hard. When I was regularly leading E2 I had to take 4 rests - seconding!
Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak.
good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant!
Great route, top end HVS 5b
definitely the best hvs in the peak on grit - possibly the best e1?
VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear!
Worth E1 in a single pitch, HVS if you split it at the belay
great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately
I'd also say E1 for the full pitch, hvs split. Whatever the grade, it is an utterly belting route, though that jam to reach the bower never feels any less sketchy. Best hvs/E1 on grit me thinks - of the ones I've done...
Never E1... It's one of the best HVS pitches in the country never mind on the grit. Rockfax.. please don't updgrade this route.. please?
Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon.
should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest.
Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too.
dont think i'll ever be taking my missus up it!!
Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route!
Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a.
A very special route, better even than Hardings Super Direct Finish and his Valkyrie, he certainly left a proud mark.
I sweated more on this than on Fern Hill. An absolutely desperate HVS, E1 in my book. Great lead.
HVS, E1, does it matter that you can't unvote steve, u pansey!! i am uncomfortable with your comment too 'mark s davies' if that is your real name, stop boasting aboout your ability to find rests... you obviously have a miniscule penis!!
Every millimetre is mint, easy for thugs.
Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the moves to the Bower, the 'abrasive crack' at the start doesn't exist and the moves out of the Bower are not described correctly. Maybe if the guide writers checked that their hazy recollections of the route matched up with reality rather than waffling on about 'nettle covered fingerholds' - WTF? - we'd have a more useful guide...
Bloody hard and intimidating at the grade. I did it in a single pitch on sight and was closer to falling off it then E3's in the past. I'm bad at jamming but the crack up to the bower and the traverse then move up after was not 5a. very relieved to reach the top clean.