3 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Killer Gorilla < Planet Claire  |  Private Idaho > Generation of Swine >>

12m. One of the best routes in the valley incorporating sustained climbing in a wild position following a superb natural line. Stand in a four foot sling on the first bolt to reach a good hold beneath the large undercut flakes. Pull onto the rock and move rightwards to gain a good flake hold beneath another bolt. Move up to the undercut flakes above, and follow these strenuously rightwards passing a peg and threaded peg to reach the sanctuary of a good rest beneath the roof, peg. Traverse rightwards and make a committing blind move into the rounded flake line. Move left and continue up the wall to reach a line of good holds that can be followed rightwards to the Private Idaho lower-off.
FA John Codling, Andy Grondowski 28.7.84


Really strenuous and pumpy. Not one to get a flash pump on, so make sure you are warmed up properly. Don't be put off by the aid start, its worth it oncce you get climbing.
Richard White - 28/Jun/05

Generally ok for grade. Pegs/tat in a bad way! Would trust them with a barge pole, but can be backed up. Dusty as hell when i did it but still good and a tad pumpy!
paul robins - 06/Sep/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E6 0 of 2
    E6 0 of 2
    easy E6 0 of 2
    hard E5 0 of 2
    E5 2 of 2
    easy E5 0 of 2
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    E4 0 of 2
    easy E4 0 of 2
    hard 6b 0 of 2
    6b 0 of 2
    easy 6b 0 of 2
    hard 6a 1 of 2
    6a 1 of 2
    easy 6a 0 of 2
    hard 5c 0 of 2
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