Brain BoxRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
Adjacent Routes
12m. Using the first bolt for aid pull up to a good hold at the lip of the roof, this hold can also be reached from the ground by using the small sapling as a hand hold. Climb the short awkward lower wall to reach a good ledge beneath the upper bulge. Move up, crux, and follow a line of undercuts rightwards to reach better holds. Finish by moving up and then left to the Generation Of Swine lower-off. USER COMMENTS
Goes free without the sapling if you are tall enough . Reach off a small undercling to the good hold, dont think it would change the grade at all. Have`nt done the rest yet though.
Did the rest of this without the tree or any aid, A few holds came off here and there, hard 7b+ maybe soft 7c, very good route hard to read higher up though maybe just because of the lack of chalk.
I did it free when I first did it and the sapling was tiny. The move off the undercut in the roof just required an enormous reach. I did it first red-point with Gary Dickinson when we first did it. I was disappointed it was mentioned requiring aid in the guide as it was never done like that.
I dont blame you for being disappointed,was a bit suprised when I found it could be done without too much trouble. Good effort, will be up there again soon to try some of the other routes.
Gary, sorry for misrepresenting your route – I used the tree when I climbed the route. On the sportsclimbs website it says “gain the upper wall from a tree and pursue a curving line with great moves”. However you do it it's a great route. Lee |