<< Savage Messiah < Stretch Limo | North Climb > Jimmy's Crack >>
60m. A fine girdle covering impressive territory at a sustained but amenable grade. Perhaps the best of its genre on grit!
1) 5b, 28m. Follow Sepulchrave to the end of its traverse and continue to Suicide Wall. Follow the same line then swing down to join Requiem above its crux and take the wide crack around the arete to a belay on Five Finger Exercise.
2) 5b, 10m. Mantel down off the ledge then reverse Tiger Traverse to a stance in Owl Gully.
3) 5b, 10m. From the gully follow the crack of Renaissance but continue out to the arete and a small stance.
4) 5b, 12m. Traverse below the roof to round the arete and continue into Weston’s Chimney or, better, finish up Boot Hill.
FA. Paul Nunn 1970
Re pitch 1: better to belay on the arete...much less rope drag and better view of second
Colin - 14/Jul/03
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments