Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Another decent Stoney E4. A technical lower wall (a bit snappy) leads to hard moves past two pegs to gain the break. After a breather, tackle the bulge and groove above.
miles harder than kelly's eye, but certainly easier than bitterfingers (which i only seconded). Fairly sustained technical climbing, but pretty well protected overall. a bit scary above the pegs.
The 'technical lower wall' is a bit pokey really and the rock generally on this route is fairly flakey and suspect, but at least it's not polished!
All quite bold in its lower half but a very good route.
Lost three holds in one evening resulting in 2 deckouts (one from the first break!) and a big one from the top wall below the lower-off (an alternative left-hand finish which we didn't complete! Definitely harder than it used to be!
The bottom 20 feet are really quite naughty - tough moves on poor rock (lost two chalked holds!) and without confidence inspiring gear. That said, the rest of the route is excellent!
...or better still read the description in the definitive BMC guide (sorry Rockfax :-( ) and realsie that the correct start is 5m left of Rippemoff, and we did "variation start b)" Maybe more solid and more evidence of "good wires"!