Colonel Bogey

2 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Four Minute Tiler < Alex It was Nothing Really  |  La Belle et la Bete > Rippemoff >>

Another decent Stoney E4. A technical lower wall (a bit snappy) leads to hard moves past two pegs to gain the break. After a breather, tackle the bulge and groove above. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Tom Proctor 1979


miles harder than kelly's eye, but certainly easier than bitterfingers (which i only seconded). Fairly sustained technical climbing, but pretty well protected overall. a bit scary above the pegs.
martin kocsis - 25/Jul/00

The 'technical lower wall' is a bit pokey really and the rock generally on this route is fairly flakey and suspect, but at least it's not polished!
Tom Briggs - 22/Aug/02

All quite bold in its lower half but a very good route.
Jez Portman - 01/Jul/03

Lost three holds in one evening resulting in 2 deckouts (one from the first break!) and a big one from the top wall below the lower-off (an alternative left-hand finish which we didn't complete! Definitely harder than it used to be!
Graham Hoey - 05/Oct/07

The bottom 20 feet are really quite naughty - tough moves on poor rock (lost two chalked holds!) and without confidence inspiring gear. That said, the rest of the route is excellent!
Dominic Oughton - 02/Apr/08

...or better still read the description in the definitive BMC guide (sorry Rockfax :-( ) and realsie that the correct start is 5m left of Rippemoff, and we did "variation start b)" Maybe more solid and more evidence of "good wires"!
Dominic Oughton - 02/Apr/08

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