Progressions of Power
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A fantastically varied route with two interesting but very different pitches. The first pitch is a little bold and warrants the E3 grade, the second involves well protected technical bridging at E2. The upper pitch can be accessed by walking up from the bottom.
1) 5c. 12m. Climb the bold slabby wall to the overhang. Traverse leftwards using undercuts to a slight rib beneath a crack, hidden peg on the left. Pull up into the crack and follow this to the terrace above. Belay at the bottom of the obvious corner/groove. The crack can also be reached direct, the Scratting Hen Start, at bold E4 6a.
2) 5c. 12m. Layback and bridge the immaculate groove to a small overhang and pull through this on its left-hand side to the top. The obvious right-hand finish past the overhang is substantially easier at HVS 5a and worth doing on its own.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 22.8.80
"a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent.
martin k - 31/Jul/06
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