Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 216
The juggy lower wall leads left to the fine bold upper arete, superb and photogenic. The central section is bold putting the route at the upper end of the grade. It can also be started direct (strenuous) up the lower arete for a full E1 5b tick.
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absolute gritstone perfection! unmissable
This is an excellent & solid HVS classic. Restful & chilled, just enjoy yourself!
yes i agree enjoy yourself, very nice routeage but not as nice as my jazz hands
Is the line in gritstone east correct? I climbed it after reading the description in the old Stanage guide and it seems to suggest moving to the right when you are almost at the top, rather than the a little lower down as suggested in the Gritsone East topo.
tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a.
One of my favourite routes! Don't know if it has a "crux" it felt consitently at the same level and never felt too hard!
Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer.
def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though.
i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route
Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS.
Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows....
I think the amount of gear rather depends how far left you are willing to lean just prior to moving up to the block / round the arete. Bit of a shame this option is there for such a nice route.