Digitron Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
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38m. An immaculate pitch and one of the best for its grade anywhere with technically varied and absorbing climbing. The difficulty gently escalates with height to a challenging finale. Climb easily to a peg then make a tricky move up and right to good holds by a small sapling, continue up a slight groove following cracks to a second peg. Move left and step up to a good resting ledge beneath an overhang. Undercut rightwards beneath the overhang then pull around the slight arete to reach another good rest beside a small niche. Pull up and leftwards on small holds to reach bigger holds beneath a peg. Four feet above the peg is a good jug and reaching it is the crux, once gained pull up slightly leftwards to a small sapling then finish easily to the right. An outstanding route.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 11.6.73

USER COMMENTS

Overrated and quite easy for its grade.
neilh - 15/Apr/05

Not sure any route in Clwyd could be described as "over rated" given how over looked the place is, but this is definitely worht any plaudits. Should really have a reachy symbol though I suspect even tallies have to slap for it.
Tyler - 09/May/05

A wonderful route, about right for the grade, continuously interesting and rewarding. I thought the finishing move off the good jug for the sapling was harder than getting the jug. For those using the old 1993 Gary Dickinson guide, take note of the description above re the moves after the second peg. The direct way described in the Dickinson guide is much harder!
Paul Evans - 19/Jun/05

Superb route, well worth 3 stars. Fair for E2 5c and the tallies don't have to slap for anything.
Kevin Sales - 21/Jun/05

Yep superb - best E2 on Clwyd Limestone. Worth its 3 stars.
jim jones - 28/Jun/05

A fine unpolished limestone climb, very steady, E1 5b
Mike Raine - 24/Aug/06

Definitely agree that the finishing move from the jug up to the sapling is harder than getting the jug. It certainly took me by surprise and I came pretty close to screwing it up.
C.E. Moreton - 29/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 42
    hard E3 0 of 14
    E3 0 of 14
    easy E3 0 of 14
    hard E2 0 of 14
    E2 13 of 14
    easy E2 0 of 14
    hard E1 1 of 14
    E1 0 of 14
    easy E1 0 of 14
    hard 6a 0 of 14
    6a 0 of 14
    easy 6a 0 of 14
    hard 5c 2 of 14
    5c 9 of 14
    easy 5c 2 of 14
    hard 5b 1 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    3 Stars 12 of 14
    2 Stars 2 of 14
    1 Star 0 of 14
    0 Stars 0 of 14
    Bag of ..... 0 of 14

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