Smokin’ Gun

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
 E6 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Friday the Thirteenth < Manic Mechanic  |  Shootin’ Blanks > Tres Hombres >>


Brilliant and technically sustained climbing up the centre of the Nemesis Wall, there is good but spaced protection throughout, start in the centre of the wall.
1) 6c, 21m. Pull up and traverse left to a ledge beneath a groove, climb into the groove, bolt, and continue to a second bolt. Using some poor undercuts make a difficult reach for some tiny crimps then rock up to reach a good flake and wires. Continue to a poor peg then move rightwards before into a niche and a rest, bolt on right. Move left around the arete, bolt, and climb the tricky wall above to the break and belay, old peg’s backed up with good cams.
2) 6a, 18m. Gain the overhung niche above then move right past a shallow corner onto and across the wall, pegs. Keep traversing until it it possible to break through the bulge past two final pegs.
FA. John Moulding 21.5.88

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