Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 114
The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but at least there are good wires. At the top, a crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position. It originally finished round to the right of the arete up an easy but tottery groove.
The original finish (traversing round the arete at the level of the start of the top crack and finishing at the Scoop Wall ledge) is useful if dark threatens and perhaps worth a mention.
same thing: the start is just ridiculously out of character with the rest of the route.
Even though the start has large footholds there is'nt much change out of 6A
I'm going to stick my neck out here - the start is not just 6a, but pretty solid at that grade. If the start of Windhover were transported to the top of a Pembroke E2, it would get E4 6a instantly - and probably would be a hard one at the grade.
The spooky bent over horror peg at the top has now gone. Must have taken one lob too many..
A good route. I don't think the start is 6a...with the sequence I used it feels like 5b/c...not clipping the peg until on good holds up and right.
Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp that can be used as a side-pull; using this 5c is alright? I have sympathy for Adrian's Pembroke comparison, though ...
The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you do the crux - looks like it wont last much longer. It seems detached all round and we were sure it moves a bit. Dont know what grade it wiil be if does come out but def harder. Doesnt affect wire placements (one in situ at moment - Aug 2014) though will affect reaching them.