Windhover

2 Stars
Technical
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Flakes Direct < Armageddon  |  Scoop Wall > Our Father >>


The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but at least there are good wires. At the top, a crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position. It originally finished round to the right of the arete up an easy but tottery groove.
FA. Dave Mellor, Dave Johnson 1960. FFA. Barry Webb 1960

USER COMMENTS

The original finish (traversing round the arete at the level of the start of the top crack and finishing at the Scoop Wall ledge) is useful if dark threatens and perhaps worth a mention.
Roger Whetton - 12/Jul/00

same thing: the start is just ridiculously out of character with the rest of the route.
martin kocsis - 24/Jul/00

Even though the start has large footholds there is'nt much change out of 6A
Simon Lee - 07/Dec/04

I'm going to stick my neck out here - the start is not just 6a, but pretty solid at that grade. If the start of Windhover were transported to the top of a Pembroke E2, it would get E4 6a instantly - and probably would be a hard one at the grade.
Adrian Berry - 05/Dec/06

The spooky bent over horror peg at the top has now gone. Must have taken one lob too many..
Jamesthacker - 03/Jul/08

A good route. I don't think the start is 6a...with the sequence I used it feels like 5b/c...not clipping the peg until on good holds up and right.
Dave Johnson - 11/Aug/08

Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp that can be used as a side-pull; using this 5c is alright? I have sympathy for Adrian's Pembroke comparison, though ...
Chris Parson - 24/Jul/11

The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you do the crux - looks like it wont last much longer. It seems detached all round and we were sure it moves a bit. Dont know what grade it wiil be if does come out but def harder. Doesnt affect wire placements (one in situ at moment - Aug 2014) though will affect reaching them.
Steve Burns - 29/Aug/14

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 114
    hard E3 0 of 37
    E3 0 of 37
    easy E3 0 of 37
    hard E2 4 of 37
    E2 16 of 37
    easy E2 4 of 37
    hard E1 13 of 37
    E1 0 of 37
    easy E1 0 of 37
    hard 6a 0 of 41
    6a 0 of 41
    easy 6a 15 of 41
    hard 5c 5 of 41
    5c 20 of 41
    easy 5c 1 of 41
    hard 5b 0 of 41
    5b 0 of 41
    easy 5b 0 of 41
    3 Stars 5 of 36
    2 Stars 28 of 36
    1 Star 3 of 36
    0 Stars 0 of 36
    Bag of ..... 0 of 36

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.