Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 163
The best route at Stoney. It follows the groove to a bulge, which provides the first hard section, to a rest in a recess. Head up the bulging crack above to an old peg, then make hard bridging moves up and left to another crack. This last section is pumpier on the legs than the arms, if you do it right.
Don't forget the possibility of seepage at the top of the pitch where the second crux is.
One of the best E1's at Stoney
Did the second ascent of this route in 1967, did it again yesterday, still brilliant but these days it seems well top end E2, nice to see the wallflowers are growing back on Stoney!
Doing a route like this makes you wonder why Stoney is so unpopular now days. As much fun as any route I've done in the Peak. Possibly E3.
Condender for one of the best Routes of any Grade in the Peak
Hard E2 or E3 but I didn't think it was that good. Maybe 2 stars.
An awesome route... one of the best I've done in the Peak. Stoney is, I feel, a somewhat odd, esoteric and perverted kind of pleasure these days. The polish is astonishingly well developed but lends a certain something to the character and difficulty of the routes... it lends a pleasure something akin to the pleasure of enjoying beautiful women with hairy legs and permanently lactating bosoms.
Best to stay right pulling over the top bulge especially if damp.