| E4 6b|
<< Windhover < Scoop Wall | Menopause > Tiger Trot >>
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.
1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick..
2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows.
FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time and graded HVS. The roof is probably a V5 boulder problem that Tom could do in his town shoes.
I presume the pegs are in good order for this grade????
nigel baker - 23/Feb/04
The pegs are a bit dodgy but they are between the 2 crux's on easier ground and you should be all right. There is an in-situ sling that you can clip to protect the reachy crux.
John Camateras - 24/Feb/04
The pegs are originals - look at the FA date and ponder!
Chris Craggs - 12/Mar/04
Good Grief, and we thought they were a bit strange when we first did it all those years ago Chris!!!!20+????
nigel baker - 13/Mar/04
A good(?) 'new' peg has been added to the lower wall some years ago. The bendy peg before the move right is (Tom's?) original?
Ian Milward - 13/May/09
The bendy peg can be backed up by a good threaded wire.
Graham Hoey - 01/Jun/11
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