Gates of the Golden Dawn

2 Stars
Strong
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Delaware Slide < These Foolish Things  |  The Deadly Trap > Sunny Side Up Mix >>


A fabulous line up the front of the buttress finishing in a wild position through the capping roofs. Better if started up These Foolish Things with a traverse to the belay at the top of pitch 1.
1) 5b, 20m. From the upper ledge. Step left to the bottom of a very lichenous corner. Climb this, peg, to an overlap and then climb the groove line on the right to a stance, many pegs.
2) 6b, 15m. Move up past a small ledge to the capping roofs, old bolt, and make tough moves through these to a final layback and the top. Threads and a pegs insitu.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Greg Griffith 15.5.80 with one point of aid, free climbed in its current form by John Moulding, John Codling 6.5.87

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