Memnon

1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Menopause < Tiger Trot  |  Aurora > Hysterectomy >>


1) 5b, 25m. Worthwhile. Start below the buttress, on the track, and climb the long open-book corner to the ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Less worthwhile. Move right and climb a groove, crumbling overhang and wall to the top.
FA. Geoff Birtles, Chris Jackson (2pts) 1963

USER COMMENTS

A much better variation on the second pitch is to move left slightly after the bulges (instead of moving right into the loose groove) and climb the wall direct via a steep crack. This is graded E3 5c and was given the name Membrane by the first ascensionists.
Steve Burns - 19/Aug/00

Pitch 1 may be worthwile but is very hard for 5b. It is poorly protected for the first 20 (crux!) feet and then doesn't give up until the grass is reached. Despite what other guides may have said it feels solid E1 at least.
Roger Whetton - 16/May/01

The first pitch is okay plenty of gear, although the grassy/ivy covered finish to the Windy Ledge is exciting. The second pitch is good training for the Dolomites being steep, loose and having lots of fixed gear you wouldn't want to fall on. Overall quite satisfying as it goes from the foot of the crag right to the very top.
Ropeboy - 10/May/05

The second pitch is on permanent loan from Wen Zawn, Gogarth being a touch fragile on the middle bulge but not excessively so - certainly don't let this put you off as it is a good excursion and there are enough rusty pegs on the crux that together something would hold plus it is a nice clean fall out zone as there is no ledge below. Something from the adventure school!
Ted Kingsnorth - 18/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
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