Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 54
An old favourite with good and varied climbing. The first pitch is generally easy, but very bold. The upper corner is the opposite. Start at the toe of the buttress.</br>1) 4c, 25m. Climb the bold wall out left then back right - care needed on this pitch with loose rock and few runners.</br>2) 4c, 25m. Jam and bridge up the corner crack right of the arete. At the top, move out left onto the arete for an astonishingly exposed finish.
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Very little good protection on 1st pitch. For 1st pitch several pegs help the head: At the arete
Take great care. Little protection of consequence and some dubious holds. I believe ther has been a fatality on this pitch in the past. The top pitch can be easily reached by the path to the side.
I just did this when it was half wet, it really really scared me. Even though it had 3 stars it still has lots of loose holds, two fist size pieces of rock came off in my hand. The only peg I found was on the left of the arete and was very rusted and that is the best piece on the whole pitch. Apart from that I thought it was a great climb especial with the second pitch which is a complete contrst I would definetly not recomend someone who can climb VS to climb this
The first pitch can be a little loose.
The first pitch is worth avoiding. Easy climbing but loose holds and crap gear - deserves HVS/E1 4b probably. If you are foolish enough to do it, you can get some fairly rubbish opposing nuts near the left arete, also there is a rusty peg around to the left here (haha); then on the next ledge one good nut placement near the peg on the extreme right.
One of the great breakthrough routes of UK climbing, virtually unparalleld for 25 years on limestone. Magnificent with good climbing and an even greater sense of history. The Peaks 'Cenotaph Corner'.