Alcasan

3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Aurora Arete < Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot  |  Compositae Groove > Four Minute Tiler >>


The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent, and there is a lot of great climbing, but despite the passage of many, there is still some suspect rock.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb Aurora (possible belay on the ledge) and follow its second pitch before striking out left across the airy wall to the Our Father cave stance. It is also possible to belay at the start of the traverse, if moral support is needed.
2) 5a, 15m. Traverse left across the black wall (crumbly, but in balance) to a small ledge on Windhover, just around the arete.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse left again along the break, and then swing under the roof to join The Flakes and follow it past the tricky section to a hanging belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Traverse left to cross Kellogg, then left again across the bay above Kink. Follow the break leftwards across the wall to Inquisitor, then climb this to the top.
FA. Chris Jackson, Jim Ballard, C.Moore (5pts) 1964

USER COMMENTS

A much better route if you start up Inquisitor and climb the route in reverse.
John Fleming - 21/May/01

If started up Aurora arete it gives 6 pitches of a similar grade in outstanding positions. Only pitch 2 is really frightenly loose. Overall the route always feels a little over E1 - just about E2 and definitely 3 stars!!
rob woon - 18/Mar/04

I think E1 5c and 2 stars is about right, there is very little loose rock and only on the 5a pitch, its great in both directions and climbable in just 3 pitches on a single rope which makes it run better.
Neil McAdie - 18/Mar/04

I did this route in around 1978 and it was awesome. I still consider this route as one of the best I have done. In all my years since I have not seen another party on it although I do only climb weekdays. A must do route in the grade
Marcus Tierney - 02/Mar/05

A good route, not much loose rock or polish. Some of the pegs are looking a little tired, but most can be backed up by good wires.
James Thacker - 13/May/05

We started from Aurora and did it in 4 pitches. Last pitch was a long one from Flakes belay to top of Inquisitor. Some very loose rock on P2, although steady climbing. Also some disposable holds on the tricky section round the arete just after leaving the flakes belay.
Dave Johnson - 22/Jun/09

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 26
    hard E3 0 of 7
    E3 0 of 7
    easy E3 0 of 7
    hard E2 0 of 7
    E2 5 of 7
    easy E2 2 of 7
    hard E1 0 of 7
    E1 0 of 7
    easy E1 0 of 7
    hard 6a 0 of 12
    6a 0 of 12
    easy 6a 0 of 12
    hard 5c 1 of 12
    5c 11 of 12
    easy 5c 0 of 12
    hard 5b 0 of 12
    5b 0 of 12
    easy 5b 0 of 12
    3 Stars 1 of 7
    2 Stars 5 of 7
    1 Star 1 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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