Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 5
The scoop and slight groove to the right of Defcon One are gained via steep moves over the low bulge. Good rock.
The word is that this route might be nearer 7a+.
It was originally given 7a (top end) with a long reach.
It was given 7a in the Dorset update.
Poor route. The "good" rock is so crumbly I doubt it will last much longer! The crux is on very thin bubbly flow that falls off bit by bit with every ascent. Could do with a long reach symbol and no stars.
I found the route only slightly friable, so I guess it has cleaned up with traffic. I agree with the need for a long reach symbol - I had to lunge for the break.
Now most of the route is on really good rock; the friable flowstone is pretty clean and doesn't affect the main climbing - the hard moves to reach the break only use one solid crimp on the flowstone, the rest of the holds are on good, black rock to the right. It is reachy at this point. The start is technical and powerful. Good moves. At least 7a.