Bitterfingers Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mottled Wall < Dead Banana Crack  |  Fe Fi Fo Fum > Okra >>


One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years. Head diagonally right with testing moves to clip the old peg (beware of runners in the undercut; they may appear better than they are). Move up to the break, swing up and left and tackle the upper crack past an awkward-to-place runner.
The Great Leveller, E6 6b - Direct from the undercut flake on Bitterfingers via a painful mono move and long stretches. There is no gear once you leave the security of Bitterfingers.
FA. Gabriel Reagan, Geoff Birtles 1976. FA. (GL) Paul Mitchell (solo) 1988

USER COMMENTS

Beware the 'bomber' nuts before the peg! loads of deck outs have occured from stripping gear!
Luce - 17/Jul/00

...get your belayer to stand on the ledge (see above comment)
tom - 27/Jul/00

Moving up from the peg can be done in 2 different ways: straight up the thin crack (fingery)or more on the right wall using some good edges(reachy). After reaching the good break the fun continues.
Colin Hughes - 18/Aug/02

Superb climbing just a shame it's so polished, but hey, that's Stoney.
Baron von Odds - 06/May/03

Alwasy amazes me why there are loads of cars at Repeated it after years of not going to Stoney and was amazed at the quality of this route. Every move is a gem!
Philip Smith - 23/Feb/04

Sustained, technical and slippery to get past the peg and reach the second break and okay rest. Make sure you head slightly left from here before heading for the tree, don't go straight up as I did!
Alun - 16/May/05

Have to disagree slightly with Alun, don't head left it's a kop out. stick with the pumpfest crack. Great route really enjoyed it surprised that I have avoided it for so long, but I guess that's down to Stoney's reputation.
phatlad - 04/Jul/05

NUTS in bottom flake/undercut are bomber if the right ones are placed carefully - don't rely only on a cam! The route does climb the top crack on its left side. Tree branches pruned last week, so route can now be enjoyed without being 'spotted' by them!
Ian Milward - 27/Jun/09

Methinks my judicious pruning has been somewhat overshadowed by the 'crag clean-up' party!
Ian Milward - 28/Jun/09

Discovered that a foothold which used to provide a bridged shake-out before moving up to the peg has disappeared! Slightly more urgent now. Removed a very loose block near the top to find a bat sleeping behind! (Clearly not a Horseshoe bat, as too far down the road?!!)
Ian Milward - 02/Jun/10

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 87
    hard E5 0 of 34
    E5 0 of 34
    easy E5 0 of 34
    hard E4 23 of 34
    E4 11 of 34
    easy E4 0 of 34
    hard E3 0 of 34
    E3 0 of 34
    easy E3 0 of 34
    hard 6b 0 of 26
    6b 0 of 26
    easy 6b 0 of 26
    hard 6a 4 of 26
    6a 22 of 26
    easy 6a 0 of 26
    hard 5c 0 of 26
    5c 0 of 26
    easy 5c 0 of 26
    3 Stars 26 of 27
    2 Stars 1 of 27
    1 Star 0 of 27
    0 Stars 0 of 27
    Bag of ..... 0 of 27

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