Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 77
12m. The rib between the chimneys is climbed on rounded holds and is poorly protected where it matters.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
Not sure what to make of this route. Slightly sketchy unprotected move at the bottom, and then it is all over. Try ducking left unter the tree for three feet more action, but really nothing to write home about. Fun none the less.
Very appealing line which is more serious than than it appears. What a route it would be with loads more exposure and no tree at hand!
using the tree is deffinetly cheating!
Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!)
The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!).
The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top
don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks.
Very soft at the grade.
This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree!
Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy.
Quite serious for VS 4c, not sure where all the gear was that people are talking about. I didn't get anything in till the larger break at about 9m. Pleasant and bold.
If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up