Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine positions.<br/><br/>1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a ledge (optional belay).<br/>2) 4c, 12m. Traverse right along the silica nodules. Either finish up the steep groove (more like HVS 5a in reality), or keep pumping along to the Bitterfingers tree.
Finishing up the groove is probably 5a (and the crux).
My friend didn't hold over the traverse and my 2nd took a bit of a swinger. Careful!
Some cunning gear placements can be found on the excellent traverse.
uch Big jugs on the travers, with the weirdest foot holds ever. Possibly one of the best VS's I've ever done
Much less tricky than I thought it was going to be. First pitch awkward. Second a joy. Good gear above the break (cams and hexes)
A good route, worth it's stars. Pleasant back and footing on the first pitch and an exposed traverse on rather interesting rock. Altogether a worthy mission!
First pitch was much better than the description suggests, a worthy companion to pitch 2.