2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Mind-blind < Belinda  |  Wallop > The Great Leveller >>

A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine positions.

1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a ledge (optional belay).
2) 4c, 12m. Traverse right along the silica nodules. Either finish up the steep groove (more like HVS 5a in reality), or keep pumping along to the Bitterfingers tree.
FA. Dave Mellor, Dave Johnson 1959


Finishing up the groove is probably 5a (and the crux).
Roger Whetton - 12/Jul/00

My friend didn't hold over the traverse and my 2nd took a bit of a swinger. Careful!
vic - 08/Jul/03

Some cunning gear placements can be found on the excellent traverse.
Nick Smith - 07/Aug/04

uch Big jugs on the travers, with the weirdest foot holds ever. Possibly one of the best VS's I've ever done
Ginger Rich - 31/Aug/04

Jon Stewart - 20/Jul/06

Much less tricky than I thought it was going to be. First pitch awkward. Second a joy. Good gear above the break (cams and hexes)

Big grin climbing.
Mat Galvin - 10/Sep/06

A good route, worth it's stars. Pleasant back and footing on the first pitch and an exposed traverse on rather interesting rock. Altogether a worthy mission!
Fiend - 18/May/07

msjhes2 - 08/Jun/09

First pitch was much better than the description suggests, a worthy companion to pitch 2.
If moving right from the niche, beware the near end of the ledge, it's very loose!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Sep/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
    hard HVS 0 of 12
    HVS 0 of 12
    easy HVS 2 of 12
    hard VS 1 of 12
    VS 9 of 12
    easy VS 0 of 12
    hard HS 0 of 12
    HS 0 of 12
    easy HS 0 of 12
    hard 5a 0 of 12
    5a 0 of 12
    easy 5a 1 of 12
    hard 4c 7 of 12
    4c 4 of 12
    easy 4c 0 of 12
    hard 4b 0 of 12
    4b 0 of 12
    easy 4b 0 of 12
    3 Stars 3 of 15
    2 Stars 9 of 15
    1 Star 2 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
    Bag of ..... 1 of 15

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.