Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 75
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade, and the air welcomes you.</br>The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing.
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It's been E3 for years so why is suddenly now E4? Kink, Traffic Jam, even Oliver are more like E4 at Stoney. Try Pickpocket - for a harder E3
Superb climbing, and not really that polished (for Stoney). Either run it out in a sprint for the top on increasingly good holds, or lace it with gear for the pump to end all pumps!
The old 1992 guide has Wee Doris traversing in from the crack on the right, while the latest Northern Limestone gives it an unprotected start direct through the pockets. Don't know how this changes the grade, as I've only led it with the original start.
The start described in the 1992 Rockfax was incorrect but how everyone seemed to be climbing it at the time, and probably still does. The true line is the one now described in Northern Limestone which does make the route a bit bolder at the bottom but it isn't actually much harder.
The start has a highball 5c move stretching off a left hand sidepull having chosen from a selection of unnervingly polished footholds. Top wall is has bomber gear but runout and pumpy and use of knees to finish obligatory. When I first did it in 80's it was generally regarded as E4 then.
This was the definitive climb for a Moac, it has the best Moac placement in the Peak.
good route. the horizontal crack is disapointingly pumpy. i sprinted for the top on the onsite and took the big fall from just below the top. perfect gear. no more top roping please
Failed dismally and found it desperate after 12 years of trad mileage and a summer training onsighting F7a sport. Piss easy climbing, massive holds, loads of gear but sickeningly pumpy hanging around to place it. Ugh.