Stairway Direct

1 Stars
Bumstart
Reachy
 V3

Adjacent Routes
<< Razor < Pete's Rib  |  Stairway > Touched by God >>


Use side-pulls to gain the hand ledge. Not in current guidebook.

USER COMMENTS

Couldn't see a sit-start on this at V3!
Wilbur - 30/Aug/05

Think the sit-start is harder now due to polish on the slabby foothold and loss of low hold below break.
However, you can sit-start the problem from the left, using the good holds and rock in to the right.
Ben Thorne - 11/Dec/05

felt stiff for the grade, and without the sit-start, couldn't find the holds to the left
viking - 15/Feb/06

nice little route. onsighted this so it cant be that bad.
airbournegrapefruit - 18/Dec/06

Were you definitely on the direct and did you do the sit? I think it is V3 without a sit... harder with the sit. Easier for the tall as well...
Wilbur - 26/Dec/06

Yes, just one little rock over type move.
airbournegrapefruit - 26/Dec/06

fair enough. was back there today in the cold and being a bit stronger and got up a V3 and V6 i couldn't touch before. still think this must be from a standing start for the grade tho..
Wilbur - 26/Dec/06

Hmmm - got this yesterday but ignoring the left hand gaston - went direct from low hold to high right hand sharp hold! don't think this problem suits my style!! Def no sit start at this grade unless you are an ape or put a couple of mats down...
Wilbur - 04/Feb/07

Sorry to appear petty about this ABG, but i have just seen a pic of you in your gallery on UKC 'onsighting stairway direct'. The problem you are climbing in the picture is actually 'Stairway' V0. So i think it would be fair to assune that you weren't on the direct as per your comments above!
Wilbur - 04/Feb/07

Think there has been more breakage of holds there is only one mono/duo shallow pocket side pull below the break.
Seemed a bit trivial without the SS so I did a traverse start today. SS directly under Pete's Rib , throw a powerful slap to the break and do the pumpy traverse to the start of what was stairway direct and finish up this problem.
It's probably been done before but hasn't been individually recorded. It a worthwhile problem in it's own right so I humbly propose a grade of V4 and name "Back Stairs".
Ben Tyrrell - 24/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
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    easy V4 2 of 2
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