Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
Climb easily to a ledge. From the right gain a smaller ledge on the left with difficulty and then move up the small groove above precariously to an easing below the final wall. Previously given 4, but now much harder due to the loss of one of the finger tips.
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Down as 6a in the update, did this on sunday and thought very easy for 6a, but F4 is having a laugh.
It was 6a until Gavin Symonds removed half of the 'third finger'. However you are right; 4 is a little mean!
Remember doing this last year in July/Aug and it seemed around easy 6A - poss hard 5+... When did the hold get ripped off/it became easier because no way 4/4+/5 when i did it!!!
I tried this on Saturday, and the exposure on some of the fourth bolt region was horrible (being a bit of a nervy climber), and the protection of the third bolt isn't that good either (if the moves aren't that bad). My more experienced partner finally lead it, but it's more likely an easy 6a/hard 5+ with a nasty spot of exposure than a 4. To me, feels a lot more daunting than harder routes (5->6a) on the other side of Portland.
F4??? You're avin' a larf!!
Did this on Sunday and would have to dis-agree with the 4 and agree with the easy 6a/hard 5+.
On the plus side loads of people are going to get sandbagged by this as a result of the new guide ;o)
You could say that, was surprised to see that it had dropped from 6a to 4. Bit of a big drop if you ask me :)
Got sandbagged by this on 10/08/05. It cant be a F4, I havent put on that much weight.
warmed up on this yesterday to re-check my opinion of the grade and i reckon it's 5+. move frome the ledge up whilst unclipped is precarious and not easy right or straight up. right is really balancy and straight up from the ledge is strengthy. above that is ok-ish but the move to the lower off is solid 5+. F4 is totally wrong!
Probably is about 5.
This was my first route at Portland and it nearly sent me packing back up North for the grit! :) Can't say I was having a great day, but I'm glad to see that others feel this was tough for the grade.
Not a 4. No way. 5+?
Did this on the weekend. Would also be inclined with 5+, although if you're tall (which I'm not), the last reach would make it feel 5.
way harder than 4, the last moves are quite exposed. It's quite obvious a large chunk has dropped off - I think I used one bit as a ground anchor?
Did this last climb today, after seeing a friend lead this I top roped it. Very good climb I would lead this (earlier in the day when my feet weren't hurting so much) but close to my leading limit so I'd give it a 5+ anyday...
Def not a 4. A hard 5+ or a 6a.
Not 6a, the moves in themselves are not hard, just feels occasionally desperate on that top section as you step out when leading. Straight up to the lower off is a power option, whereas breaking right is more balanced climb. At the far top right there's one of those marvelous sticky-out handle grips you find all the time on indoor climbing walls and think to yourself,"like you'd get that on a rock face," sadly you reach it after all the sweating and crying has been done.
IMO appox. Grade 5/5+. Never 6a. A few exposed moves
Did the route on Sat, I was just about to send a novice climber up it! I was warned off by another climber, thought it was about 5+.
Did this route the other day. Possibly the hardest Grade 4 ive done involving alot of cursing and crying!, very exposed in places Would recommend it as a stiff 5+ (I have climbed easier 6a's though)
Yup, got sandbagged on it allright ! Did it last Thursday as the last route of the day thinking it'd be a nice warm-down... After watching my mate struggling up it and thinking that he was complaining a bit too much for the grade, I then led it and found out why... Bolts in the wrong place, giving potential for nasty fall on the balancy mantleshelf moves, etc. Grade 5 at least, maybe 5+.
After redoing I reckon move onto finger is about a 5 and move up and over penultimate bolt is probably a 6a as it is pretty damn committing.
Agree with comments regarding the grade - should probably be 5 or 5+. Grading it 4 is just ridiculous
We did this after Two Fingers, and I thought it had trickier moves, but was less sustained. F6a seemed fair, unless I missed something.
Chose to do this as a warm up before Two Fingers, and it threw me completely to the point where I only seconded Two Fingers (which I found much nicer, although sustained in the chimney). At least 5+.
Good to read the other comments, thought route pretty tough n exposed for a 4