Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 115
The shallow groove gives a pleasant pitch with a tricky start and finish. Most people descend from the ledge, but there is a worthwhile upper pitch on the face above (4c) which can be done in one run-out with no change in grade. A little loose.
A worthwhile route in most peoples book
The upper pitch (4c/5a?) is worth doing though it does contain some suspect rock. Best of all is to do both pitches in one giving a long and satisfying route.
Doing both pitches in one is logical and the line is continuous. The lower groove now feels hard 5a and the upper overlap is hard 4c if you use holds just left of (and in)the short crack...a good outing.
Okay, interestingly technical but has at least it's fair share of Stoney polish!
The loose jug after the crux on pitch 1 may have been there for many a year but is now no more!
I'm not sure whether pitch 2 (which is probably 5a) can really still be recommended. It's all rather dirty and the rock above the roof does seem rather disposable.
Pitch 2 is not worth the effort