Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 16
The left-hand crack gives a good sustained pitch with a mixture of loose and polished holds. Finish either rightwards, leftwards or direct over the bulge.
A good route, but go right at the top, NOT over the bulge or leftwards where it's horribly chossy and vegetated. Having looked at the bulge option, I decided to go leftwards: a big mistake as the top out is horrendous. I came peeling off backwards, along with various bits of vegetation and several loose blocks. Luckily neither I, my belayer, nor any passers by were hurt.
Gets my vote over What the Hell. Despite appearances, the start climbs better. The main crack has more variety and the finish out right is nicely exposed.
Suggest you start right of the corner to avoid the sand/wasps nest! Good route if steep polished limestone offwidths are your thing. The obvious finish is right at the top; no idea why anyone would go straight up or left.