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A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
14m. Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall.
FA. Nick White 1988
w Brian 3tspc 8c+
The hardest sport climb in the south of the UK takes in the crux of Tuppence and a whole lot more hard climbing. Start as for The Cider Soak.
21m. Move up to the overhang and traverse left to join A Fisherman's Tale. Now go left and down slightly to join and follow Tuppence to just above its last hard move. Go left and finish direct.
FA. Ken Palmer 2003
The perfect power-endurance route. An essential tick. Has an undeserved reputation for being powerful, but is really just totally brilliant. The midway pocket can often be dried out with a beer towel, and this route can be climbable all year round.
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/05
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