Cocytus Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Dumb Blonde < American Express  |  More Steam, Bigger Women > Torbay or Not Torbay >>


A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth corner/groove.
1) 6a 13m. Climb the immaculate, smooth groove past two bolts and swing left at its top to a bolt belay on a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Move up left from the ledge, then traverse steeply rightwards to find and use a borehole on a sloping shelf to access the base of a short steep corner. Climb this to the vegetated slope above. Bolt belay in an outcrop over to the right. Abseil off.
FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 31.5.1976

USER COMMENTS

Those who have no wish to topout for the full historic tick might like to know that the lower off for pitch 2 of this and More Steam Bigger Women is in the wrong place on the photo topo (i.e. it's in the orangey stuff right by you, there isn't one above in the white stuff).
Paz - 08/Jun/06

This is a really good route, with a very technical groove on the first pitch. The topout is very exciting and you will be fighting up loose rock and vegetation to an old bolt belay.
Richard White - 29/Jun/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard E2 0 of 0
    E2 0 of 0
    easy E2 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 6
    6b 0 of 6
    easy 6b 0 of 6
    hard 6a 3 of 6
    6a 2 of 6
    easy 6a 1 of 6
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    3 Stars 5 of 6
    2 Stars 0 of 6
    1 Star 1 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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