The Smile Top 50

3 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Crooked Mile < Wraith  |  Out of the Blue > Sea Green >>

A fabulous route that follows the sweeping, wide break across the face of the fin and is topped off by a well-positioned thin crack. Start at a vague line of holds that lead up to the break.</br>Climb up the wall to the left-slanting break. Follow the break all the way to a broken niche and climb up the wall above via a thin crack to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Steve Jones 3.4.1971


Great route for a fit E1 leader. The first 20ft to the crack are bold but there's good gear in the break. The crack takes a lot of similar-sized big-sized gear but there are some excellent mid-sized wires about your head on the upper wall so keep looking! Have a good rest in the pod at the end of the traverse and place some good gear: the finish provides great committing climbing on incut holds in a supurb position. Enjoy!
Andrew Sheehy - 07/Aug/05

Worryingly loose rocking block at the top of the niche but it must be held in pretty well as it didn't come out when I swung on it, jammed behind it and then stood on it...
chris jones - 15/Jun/06

The loose block at the top of the niche shifted about 20cm outwards today (but stayed in situ). You can climb around without touching it but be careful!
chris jones - 12/Jul/06

Wobbly block still wobbling - 3/6/07.
Owen W-G - 05/Jun/07's been wobbling for the last twenty years!
Ed - 11/Aug/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard E1 7 of 10
    E1 2 of 10
    easy E1 1 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 10
    5b 0 of 10
    easy 5b 1 of 10
    hard 5a 8 of 10
    5a 1 of 10
    easy 5a 0 of 10
    hard 4c 0 of 10
    4c 0 of 10
    easy 4c 0 of 10
    3 Stars 8 of 10
    2 Stars 1 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.