Twilight Zone

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Clawtrack < Culm to Mother  |  Challenger > Small Plate McGinty >>


35m. The main line on this side of the wall. Begin up Clawtrack then head right along the crack. Pull steeply onto the wall above and head for some holes. Leave these rightwards and pull back left to finish. Direct start is a bold E5 6a. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86. Direct - Crispin Waddy 4.88

USER COMMENTS

This is a genuinely scary route and very hard to protect it adequately. I spent about 1.5 hours cautiously fiddling gear in everywhere, but didnt feel safe to fall off until about 2/3 height, where i got 2 solid wires. Glad to see this has gone up from E3 to E4 - the state of the rock clearly justifies it.
Neville Contractor - 15/May/06

i thought the gear was good and the climbing straightforward, borderline 5C.

i have to say though i wasnt sure about the line i took: i trended right after the bulge to join the finishing crack that eventually curves left.

whatever i did it was superb with good holds and generally clean rock throughout (and it had definitely seen traffic).
ksjs - 27/Jul/06

A good appealing wall, nowhere near E4 obviously. There is a bit of flakey rock and sparse protection low down, also the middle section above the break is not entirely clear, but neither is it too hard. Again a very enjoyable finish.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard E5 0 of 2
    E5 0 of 2
    easy E5 0 of 2
    hard E4 0 of 2
    E4 0 of 2
    easy E4 0 of 2
    hard E3 2 of 2
    E3 0 of 2
    easy E3 0 of 2
    hard 6a 0 of 3
    6a 0 of 3
    easy 6a 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 1 of 3
    easy 5c 1 of 3
    hard 5b 1 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 3
    2 Stars 3 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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