Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 8
35m. The main line on this side of the wall. Begin up Clawtrack then head right along the crack. Pull steeply onto the wall above and head for some holes. Leave these rightwards and pull back left to finish. Direct start is a bold E5 6a. Not in current guidebook.
This is a genuinely scary route and very hard to protect it adequately. I spent about 1.5 hours cautiously fiddling gear in everywhere, but didnt feel safe to fall off until about 2/3 height, where i got 2 solid wires. Glad to see this has gone up from E3 to E4 - the state of the rock clearly justifies it.
i thought the gear was good and the climbing straightforward, borderline 5C.
A good appealing wall, nowhere near E4 obviously. There is a bit of flakey rock and sparse protection low down, also the middle section above the break is not entirely clear, but neither is it too hard. Again a very enjoyable finish.