Break On Through Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Mother's Ruin < Finesse  |  Pacemaker > Sunscape >>


An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in the grade.
Photo on page 3.
23m. From the right-hand end of the ledge, make a series of technical moves up a thin crack on the right to better holds. Continue up the wall via another crack to a quartz break that heads diagonally left to the top. Follow this line boldly to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, P.Amphlett 24.4.1986

USER COMMENTS

Really nice climbing. Good, but hard won protection make this an exciting route.
Just don't do it in the wet and with a very close rising tide as we did. One of those, "Oh the rock will be drier higher up, the tides not coming in too fast!" Wrong on accounts!
Richard White - 23/Nov/05

Path, bomber gear all the way to the top, no run out no hard moves, super cruisey climbing
rr - 12/Sep/06

Extremely enjoyable and very steady. Good rock and spaced but mercifully obvious gear make this a reassuring lead. The finish is not at all bold! Nice wall climbing the whole way. I don't really understand Sharpnose grades but this felt easy.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

Harder and more sustained than Diamond Smiles but obvious climbing. Still, even at its relatively modest, by Sharpnose standards, height of 20m this was very pumpy (for me at least)!
Alan - 24/Aug/07

Not even close to E4, as with many Sharpnose routes. Superb route though, steady E3. Surely most routes here need a bit of a re-grade, just so out of line with every other crag i've ever been to
Ged Desforges - 01/Jun/09

nice route, but never E4 more like E2 5c i thought
robin richmond - 27/Feb/13

Beautiful route of the very highest quality.

Miles off E4, the holds are massive and there's gear all over it. Would be stiff at E2 5b, or easy at E3 5c. LSN needs a grade audit!
Jon Stewart - 20/Apr/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 40
    hard E5 0 of 21
    E5 0 of 21
    easy E5 0 of 21
    hard E4 0 of 21
    E4 6 of 21
    easy E4 7 of 21
    hard E3 6 of 21
    E3 0 of 21
    easy E3 2 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 1
    6a 0 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 1 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    3 Stars 17 of 18
    2 Stars 1 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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