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<< Fay < Diastole | The Monk's Satanic Verses > Hellbound on my Trail >>
A high grade testpiece of the Culm Coast that combines some technical and fingery climbing in its mid-section, with a tiring and not overly-geared upper wall. Start at a left-trending crack which leads to the good spike runner low on Fay.
32m. Gain the spike on Fay and follow the wall on the right to another diagonal break. Move left along the break for 3m to below a blank wall with pegs in it. Hard climbing to and past the pegs gains a quartz break. Move up to another break and follow this left a little way before heading up the final wall to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson 17.5.1987
The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The second one looks awful, but held three large falls yesterday. There is a stuck nut next to it, which is fairly corroded. Very dusty - mucky feel to route.
toby - 30/May/09
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