Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
The striking arete is as good as it looks. Protection from small wires is ample and the climbing is technical and sustained. Start up the slope just right of the arete.</br>1) 5b, 21m. Move leftwards up the wall to the arete and climb its right-hand side to a peg. Make a perplexing few moves up and then left to an easing at a whitish scoop, good small wires. Move right and make a stiff pull to undercuts and a peg above. Easier climbing finishes at a ledge and bolt belay.</br>2) 11m. Climb easy ground to the top. Not in current guidebook.
A great Chudleigh route with only the first few moves polished.
Take lots of small wires (0 - 2), there's more gear than it looks from the ground.
Did second ascent with John Jones and we both found it desperate. When I met Pete Biven later and told him of our epic, He said "you should have done what we did,throw a rope over the bough of the overhanging tree -- that`s why we called it Combined Ops"!
Not easy and not as elegant as it looks. Although the gear is decent and there are some shake-outs, there are a lot of 5b bits on it. Scrodging left into the niche is quite disconcerting, crinkling back right onto the face is considerably nicer.