Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
One not to be missed. Two contrasting pitches wend their way up Chudleigh's biggest chunk of limestone. Start just left of a low zigzag-crack at a small corner that leads to a ledge at 3m.</br>1) 5a, 20m. Climb onto the ledge and take the diagonal crack left to another ledge. Arrange gear and move left and up onto a good hold in the middle of the slab. Some bold moves gain the belay ledge up on the left. Peg and nut belays.</br>2) 5b, 24m. From the right side of the belay ledge move up to another smaller ledge and take the white wall above to the overhang. Climb steeply around its left side on good holds to a small ledge above. Climb direct above the ledge to a small whitish groove that allows access to the thin crack on the grey headwall, good wires. Work rightwards on thin ground to a tree stump and finish up the easier wall and cracks above. Not in current guidebook.
There is now a good blade peg just above the ledge on the first pitch which makes sense as a slip from the final moves would these days have ended up in the tree below. (30 years ago there were no trees beneath this route).
There was a reasonable RP placement where the peg is... Having the peg there makes the first pitch feel a bit tame.
It was all balanced E1 before the peg: a bold easier bit and then harder, well protected. Why do some people think they are doing us all a so called service without actually thinking it through? The first pitch now will be far less memorable.
Not sure about the peg on the first pitch does take away a little of the spice of the first pitch. The second pitch however is what its all about fantastic crux moves above the bulge.
Top wall is superb, first pitch gave it the grade. Whoever pegged it - find another sport, climbing's obviously not for you. Give it up before you wreck another top route. If you put a "tick" in your guidebook - rub it out.
Excellent route, especially liked the second pitch. First pitch didn't feel bold at all with the new peg, in my humble opinion probably would have been better without.
Was it really THAT bold beofre the peg, good micro placement and another funny nut to give more courage. Still good moves though having not climbed it before the peg maybe I shouldn't comment.
Peg on first pitch has been chopped through the eye. Makes the pitch bolder as the stub is still in place blocking the obvious micro-wire placement.