The Spider Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Scar < The Fly  |  Great Western > None >>


Magnificent sustained and varied climbing. Best done as one huge pitch with the crux perched on the hanging shield of quality rock at the very top of the Western Tower.
1) 5a. Start beneath the diagonal crack as for The Fly. Gain and climb the diagonal crack to a horizontal break. Mantleshelf on to a large hold in the scoop above and move up left with care to belay.
2) 5b. Move up and right to the left side of a block overhang in the middle of the face. Climb on to a ledge on its top. Move up to a steep groove and breakthrough on to the upper wall. Thin cracks and small holds lead to a little tree. Continue up the easier wall behind to the top.
FA. F.Cannings 1964

USER COMMENTS

There is now a good blade peg just above the ledge on the first pitch which makes sense as a slip from the final moves would these days have ended up in the tree below. (30 years ago there were no trees beneath this route).
Mark Glaister - 24/May/06

There was a reasonable RP placement where the peg is... Having the peg there makes the first pitch feel a bit tame.
chris j - 11/Jun/06

It was all balanced E1 before the peg: a bold easier bit and then harder, well protected. Why do some people think they are doing us all a so called service without actually thinking it through? The first pitch now will be far less memorable.
Jon Wilson - 23/Jun/06

Not sure about the peg on the first pitch does take away a little of the spice of the first pitch. The second pitch however is what its all about fantastic crux moves above the bulge.
Mark McManus - 14/Jul/06

Top wall is superb, first pitch gave it the grade. Whoever pegged it - find another sport, climbing's obviously not for you. Give it up before you wreck another top route. If you put a "tick" in your guidebook - rub it out.
Stan - 16/Aug/06

Excellent route, especially liked the second pitch. First pitch didn't feel bold at all with the new peg, in my humble opinion probably would have been better without.
felix - 13/Nov/06

Was it really THAT bold beofre the peg, good micro placement and another funny nut to give more courage. Still good moves though having not climbed it before the peg maybe I shouldn't comment.
Excellent route though. No hard move, just a bit pumpy towards the top.
richard ray - 31/Aug/07

Peg on first pitch has been chopped through the eye. Makes the pitch bolder as the stub is still in place blocking the obvious micro-wire placement.
Chris Jones - 04/Oct/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
    hard E2 0 of 5
    E2 0 of 5
    easy E2 0 of 5
    hard E1 4 of 5
    E1 1 of 5
    easy E1 0 of 5
    hard HVS 0 of 5
    HVS 0 of 5
    easy HVS 0 of 5
    hard 5c 0 of 5
    5c 0 of 5
    easy 5c 0 of 5
    hard 5b 0 of 5
    5b 5 of 5
    easy 5b 0 of 5
    hard 5a 0 of 5
    5a 0 of 5
    easy 5a 0 of 5
    3 Stars 4 of 5
    2 Stars 0 of 5
    1 Star 1 of 5
    0 Stars 0 of 5
    Bag of ..... 0 of 5

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.