Colonel's Arete Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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An excellent expedition up the large subsidiary buttress next to the vegetated gully on the left of the Main Face itself.
Start just right of a wide crack.
1) Climb the wall right of the crack to a ledge and move up to belay beneath a crack.
2) Move up leftwards on to the broad face of the arete, and climb past large flakes to a corner. Up this to a belay on a ledge below a prominent bent tree.
3) Go past the tree and up a corner to belay ledge.
4) Climb the face of the arete to the summit.
FA. Jim Moulton 1948


Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...
D Berry - 02/Jul/05

I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
victim of mathematics - 08/Jul/05

Yet another Dewerstone Classic that should be on every new leaders tick list. Some nice and steep problems along a rambling arete that pops you up onto a fantastic view point.
Craig Cook - 15/Aug/05

Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
majormajormajormajor - 23/Jan/06

One of the very best climbs I have ever done.
The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
sam_walker - 12/Mar/06

A good outing especially for a novice leader, I did it in 3 pitches by linking the first two. A fair bit of exposure for a Vdiff, but good gear, and you donít have to use the tree (thatís struggling anyway) on the last pitch as there is gear up the left of it.
chris colebrooke - 02/May/06

Really surprised by the votes on this one. A few nice moves, but mostly quite ordinary and with very little sense of even being on an arete. Needle Arete at the same grade is in a different league!
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard HVD 0 of 11
    HVD 0 of 11
    easy HVD 0 of 11
    hard VD 2 of 11
    VD 8 of 11
    easy VD 1 of 11
    hard0 of 11
    0 of 11
    easy0 of 11
    3 Stars 7 of 12
    2 Stars 4 of 12
    1 Star 0 of 12
    0 Stars 1 of 12
    Bag of ..... 0 of 12

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