Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 52
A truly wonderful climb - they don't come much better. The climbing is intimidating but straightforward and very well-protected. Start directly beneath the dominating corner. </br>1) 4b, 28m. Climb the short polished wall to the base of the corner, which is followed all the way to the capping overlap. Traverse rightwards to the arete and a large block-belay. </br>2) 4b, 20m. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge. Move right to below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top, the technical crux of the route.
Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position).
Probably one of the best routes of this grade in the country. Plenty of gear and a steady head will prevail, just when it gets stiff a few moves later and it eases. Delightful right rising traverse to arete belay. The second pitchs final layback completes a classic.
My first lead at the Dewerstone - doesn't come much better! Have lost count of the amount of times I've climbed it now! Still brilliant though. The top pitch can be made less scrappy by traversing right from the stance then climbing a crack almost to the foot of the last corner. Unfortunately a bit of polished at the start now...
Great position for a severe, great holds, great setting, just great period.
It would be useful if the guide mentioned that the final corner on pitch 2 is the same as the final pitch of CC Ordinary - that we we could have arranged things so that different people led it each time!