| E1 5b|
<< Vala < Central Groove | Fruitflancase > Gideon >>
A spectacular mission taking the sheer right wall of Central Groove.
1) 5b. Start up Central Groove and pull out right on to the hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang and pull through on to the vertical wall. Ascend direct to the belay of Central Groove on positive holds.
2) 4b. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968
Excellent and appealing. Be warned that the crux is surprisingly bold, steep moves to reach the roof - the so-called crux layback around it, once protection is sorted, is easy and fun. The face above is as delightful as it looks.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07
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