<< Central Groove < Scimitar Direct | Gideon > Climbers' Club Direct >>
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Start up Central Groove and move right on to the hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Jam away to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue to a belay below a clean cut corner.
3) 4b. Climb the clean-cut corner to the top.
FA. A.McFarlane 1969
A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07
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