3 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Groove < Scimitar Direct  |  Gideon > Climbers' Club Direct >>

A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove. </br>1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.</br>2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.</br>3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 14.9.1969


A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E2 0 of 3
    E2 0 of 3
    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 1 of 3
    easy E1 2 of 3
    hard HVS 0 of 3
    HVS 0 of 3
    easy HVS 0 of 3
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    hard 5a 1 of 3
    5a 1 of 3
    easy 5a 1 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
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    easy 4c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 3 of 3
    2 Stars 0 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
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