3 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Groove < Scimitar Direct  |  Gideon > Climbers' Club Direct >>

A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove. </br>1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.</br>2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.</br>3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation.
FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 14.9.1969


A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E2 0 of 3
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    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 1 of 3
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    hard 5b 0 of 3
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    hard 5a 1 of 3
    5a 1 of 3
    easy 5a 1 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
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    3 Stars 3 of 3
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