Gideon

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Scimitar Direct < Fruitflancase  |  Climbers' Club Direct > Climbers' Club Ordinary >>


Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack-pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove. </br>1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard-belay.</br>2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Mike Rabley, John Jones 12.1962 (1pt),FFA. Len Benstead, Dennis Morrod 1969

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